Go Nude! Essential Tips for the Perfect Nude Lip That Won't Wash you Out....(SheFinds Feature)

When Lisa Fogarty from  fab beauty blog SheFinds reached out to get the lowdown all about nude lips...I was happy to help!  As a pale girl, I've struggled with nude...do it wrong, and you'll look pale and wan, not chic.

So what's a girl to do?  Read on for the interview and you'll be rocking a nude lip like a pro!

How To Wear Nude Lipstick Without Looking Washed Out

LISA FOGARTY
JANUARY 21, 2016

Certain lipstick shades have big personalities. Red requires little more than a precise application technique to look smashing. Hot pink or coral–similar va-va-va-voom factor, similar ease. The same, however, can’t be said for nude lipstick, which I’ve always considered the most difficult hue to pull off. The wrong nude lip can make some of us look tired and washed out. What’s more: it isn’t always easy to achieve the delicate balance between a nude lip and the makeup on the rest of your face.

To help pull off the nude trend that’s sweeping the Internet, makeup artist Jennifer Trotter at Lip Service is here to offer solid advice on how to create an amazing, flattering nude lip look that will make you look ethereal… not exhausted.

SHEfinds: What are some of your best nude lipstick application tips?

Jennifer Trotter: Here are three:

1. Exfoliate first. Lighter colors really highlight any dryness, so be sure to exfoliate lips with a sugar scrub (I like Fresh Brown Sugar) or even a rough washcloth to remove flakes, then coat lips with a moisturizing lip treatment (I like Joeur’s version).  Let the moisture soak in while you’re doing the rest of your makeup, then blot any excess before applying lip color.

2. Use lip liner. Line and then fill in lips with a nude lip pencil similar to the color you’re using. This will give your lip color extra staying power and it won’t bleed into any fine lines.

3. Choose color carefully. This is crucial to a fab nude lip. Get it wrong and you’ll look like an extra from The Walking Dead.  My rule of thumb: choose a nude with a rosy undertone instead of a flat beige, particularly if you have a lighter skin tone. That slight rosy undertone will keep your nude lip neutral and fresh with just enough warmth to not make you look washed out.  If you have a lot of natural color in your skin (think Beyonce and Jennifer Lopez–the pinnacle of nude lip wearers), you can go more beige-nude.

SF: What specific nude lipsticks do you recommend?

JT: For paler girls: Tom Ford in Nude Vanille, Nars Brigette and Revlon Soft Nude. For darker skin tones: MAC Fleshpot,NYX Honey or The Balm’s Meet Matte Hughes in Committed.

When you consider a nude lip shade, avoid shades with flat brown or taupe undertones. They may be trendy, but they’re easy to get wrong and can suck the natural color right out of your complexion.

SF: Should nude lips be matte or glossy?

JT: I prefer my nudes on the glossier side–too matte can look dry and aging.  A nude gloss looks great on top of any lipcolor, and can neutralize the shade a bit.  Nude glosses to try: Butter London Lippy in Tea with the Queen and L’Oreal in Barely Nude.

SF: How should you adjust the rest of your makeup to suit the look of nude lipstick?

JT: Add a bit more blush for warmth, and ensure your foundation is flawless. Without the contrast of a brighter lip, any skin issues will be more obvious.  You can’t go wrong with the classic combo of a smoky eye and a nude lip. Go super smoky with shades of carbon, charcoal and bronze paired with a nude lip. Add fluttery lashes and this sexy look is tough to beat, yet not too over the top.

SF: Should your clothing choices change when you wear a nude lip?

JT: Be sure that you’re choosing an outfit in your most flattering colors when you rock a nude lip to avoid looking washed out.  If ivory makes you look pale, then pairing an ivory sweater with nude lip will have friends asking if you have the flu. Choose colors that make you feel strong and powerful… cobalt, red, charcoal, black, white. Nude lip looks are fab against all white on darker skinned ladies–see: Beyonce and JLo again.

For more beauty tips, check out Hack: How to turn eyeshadow into lipstick and How to apply lip color so that it stays put all day long.

[Photo: Imaxtree]

What's the Number One Thing You Should Look For When Choosing Cosmetics?

Whenever I do makeup for headshots, weddings or a group or private lessons, clients are always shocked at how LIGHT the makeup feels when I'm done, and how long it lasts.  They want to know what it is that I'm doing to get such great results that look and feel so different from results they get when they do their own makeup at home.  Well, here is my #1 trick.....

Highly pigmented products are a MUST for bridal makeup!

The products I use....expensive, drugstore and pro brand....have all been chosen with one thing in mind...they are all highly pigmented!

So what the heck does THAT mean?

Think about this...have you ever applied a cheap, drugstore eyeshadow or blush that looked pretty in the package, but when you applied it....the color just wasn't there, or you had to really pack it on to see anything?  Or you applied lipstick just to have it fade into oblivion a few hours later?  You might have figured out that those cosmetics weren't the best quality, but what exactly is the problem? Too much filler versus pigment...plain and simple.  A high ratio of filler ingredients will dilute the intensity of pigment and create a  dry, chalky texture.... that means you have to really work to get any color payoff, the colors aren't true and it won't last. In regard to eye shadow, it can also result in major fallout...as in color all over your cheeks instead of on your eyelids...a beating when you're trying to get ready, but also a waste of time and product.

Photo Credit: Aphrodite Attitude

Higher quality formulas apply true color smoothly, and in one swipe....that's the golden ticket!  You can keep it light with a soft wash of color, or build to major intensity....if a product has more pigment, the option is up to you.  When your shadow, blush and lipstick are properly pigmented, there's no need to pack it on and it'll blend seamlessly with your skin.

Pigmented shadows - Photo credit: Makeup Geek

How do you know if you've got a highly pigmented product?                                
I'll save you plenty of time right off the bat....I've yet to find ANY...and I do mean any, drugstore brand powder formula eye shadow that had enough pigment for me.  I'm a fan of several drugstore brands for other products, but in eye shadow...no....just no.  Skip straight to higher end brands like Lorac (my current fave), Urban Decay (watch out for overly sparkly shades), Mac, IT Cosmetics (super smooth and blendable matte shades) and Charlotte Tilbury.  Look for an almost buttery smooth texture and intense color, and minimal fall out...

There are more options with blush...there are several brands at every price point that have enough pigmentation to provide the healthy flush you're looking for.  Look for soft, micro-milled formulas that provide enough color with a subtle application....if it requires several swipes, move on to another

Highly pigmented gel blush from Butter London

brand. Also look into gel or cream versions...they often carry more pigment, and eliminate the chalky texture issues that can come with powder blush.  Brands I like include Nars (powders and "the Multiple" cream sticks), Milani powder blush (a cheapie insider fave), MAC Blush (especially the Mineralize Finish ones), Butter London gel fomulas (super intense! See example on left) and Maybelline cream blush sticks.

You'll have even better luck with lipsticks! I've found several across the board that carry the

Example of pigmented lipstick swatches

pigmented intensity I seek.  Look for matte formulas that provide good color payoff in one pass....you can sheer it out with gloss, or apply straight from the tube for the full effect. A few of my current go to lipsticks include Kat Von D (intense, matte and long lasting), Smashbox, L'Oreal (half the price and very comparable to higher end versions), Revlon (classic and affordable shades) and Lipstick Queen.

Highly pigmented products mean better color payoff, a long lasting look AND you can use less product! Also, the more pigmented your products are, the more versatile they are...
Use a light touch and blend well when you want subtle looks, apply full force when you're ready to be bold...the same products can do both, if you've chosen well.


What cosmetics do you own that pass the pigment test?  What do you have that doesn't?  Share in the comments!

Back to School - Part 2 - Color You Gorgeous!

Fall is my favorite season!
As I mentioned in my previous post, I really, really dig fall. As a kid, I grew up in Wisconsin, where fall actually meant crisp air and falling leaves and back to school in September.  In Fort Worth, where I currently live?  Not so much.  Kids start school in August and fall doesn't hit until much later in the year...late October, early November or so.  I relish in it once it arrives!  Whether you're in school, you're a teacher, going to work every day or a mom running kids to class, Back to School is a state of mind...the end of summer, time for transitions.  If you read Part 1 of my Back to School beauty tips (if you missed it, click here to read), then your skin is in shape...now it's time to add a little color to your life!  What are some easy ways to switch up your makeup routine this fall?  Read on....

 

Change up your lip game -  Fall is  great time to switch out your clear gloss or summer lipbalm for a creamy lipstick in a peachy/pink or even a deep berry...these colors look great most everyone and will work well with your new wardrobe too.  If you're not a lipstick fan, try a lipbalm/stain combo like Revlon's fall Colorburst Balm Stain in Crush or Smitten....it applies like a lip balm, but adds a sheer wash of color.

Stick to pinks, berries, reds and peachy shades....brown shades are everywhere in fall, but they're not always flattering, especially on paler skin tones.

Personally, I love a really deep berry for fall!  It looks great with heavier clothing and darker colors, plus it really gives a pop of color to my (year 'round!) pale skin....
One of my favorite shades is "Shame" by Urban Decay....even though it's not technically fall yet in Texas (still around 100 degrees daily), I had to break out a little wishful fall makeup last week!

Try a new way to blush - Have you been skipping blush on top of your tan this summer, or just using bronzer? When cooler temps hit, you'll need to transition to a little more cheek color to compensate for paler skin. Try a sheer, blendable gel formula (Try Butter London's Cheeky blush in Abbey Rose) for staying power to last through long days of class and after school activities.  Blend well onto the apples of your cheeks with a dampened Beauty Blender sponge...don't bring color too low!  For even longer lasting blush, try a gel formula, set with powder and then add a light dusting of powder blush on top.  Pinks, peachy shades, sheer poppy or berry all work on a variety of skin tones.  Go easy on bronzer in fall and winter, use sparingly for a light glow!


(photo credit: lipstickwithsunshine.com)

 

School /Work Appropriate Eye Makeup - Not sure how much eye makeup is appropriate for school , work or PTA meetings this fall?  Easy test.... if your eye makeup would fit in at the club or on a red carpet, it's definitely too much for daytime!  When it doubt, keep it simple.  A wash of buttery gold shadow (try L'Oreal infalliable shadow in Iced Latte) or shimmery taupe shadow provides a bit of definition and looks

(photo credit: seeyourinterest.com)

great on most everyone.....avoid bright colors and too much sparkle, save that for nights out. Dark brown or black liner traced lightly into lash lines,  plus mascara will give your eyes a bit of polish that looks great whether you're a sorority pledge or the one teaching a roomful of students....pretty much any situation! 

 

Fall-worthy Lashes and Brows - If your lashes are very light or got bleached out from summer, be sure to coat your lashes all the way down to the tip!  Choose a mascara with a tiny wand, such as one made for lower lashes, like Maybelline Lash Discovery.  Other ideas?  You can buy small disposable wands at a cosmetic supplier inexpensively to use with your favorite mascara, and Sephora has a great brush to try...it's a tiny fan brush that lets you paint on your favorite mascara root to tip. (Sephora Pro collection brush #220).

If your brows are like mine...much lighter than my hair and bleach out easily in the sun....be sure to fill them in a bit.  Use a bit of brow powder (Senna and Anastasia have great options) and a tiny angled brush.  Don't go overboard!  Just lightly fill in sparse areas and darken them up a bit if they're bleached out.

Follow these tips for a fresh look that is just right for fall!  What's YOUR favorite way to transition your makeup look from summer to fall?  Share in the comments below!